Scotland vs France

Direct flights serve Edinburgh from most UK and many European cities. The Airlink 100 bus runs every 10 minutes from the airport to Waverley Bridge in the city centre for £4.50 — quicker than a taxi in match-week traffic.

💡 Book flights at least 6 weeks ahead for Six Nations weekends. Prices spike sharply in the final fortnight.

Drop bags at your hotel and head straight to the Royal Mile — the historic spine of the Old Town running from Edinburgh Castle down to the Palace of Holyroodhouse. The street fills with tartan, buskers and early-arriving rugby fans on match weekends. Grab a coffee and start exploring closes (narrow alleyways) off the main drag.

💡 Advocate's Close off the Royal Mile offers one of the best views of the castle spire and is almost always quiet.

The castle dominates the city skyline from its ancient volcanic rock. Inside: the Scottish Crown Jewels, the Stone of Destiny, and the One O'Clock Gun fired daily. Allow 90 minutes to do it justice. Book online to skip the ticket queue.

💡 The castle esplanade gives the best free panoramic views of the New Town and Firth of Forth even if you don't go inside.

Head down to the Grassmarket — a sunken square below the castle walls lined with lively bars and restaurants. On Six Nations weekends the atmosphere here is infectious: fans from both nations mixing over pints, scarves everywhere, someone always singing. The White Hart Inn claims to be Edinburgh's oldest pub.

💡 Pubs fill fast. The Last Drop and Maggie Dickson's are locals' favourites with more room than the tourist traps.

Cockburn Street curves dramatically off the Royal Mile and is packed with independent restaurants. Try Wedgwood for elevated Scottish cuisine, or The Witchery for atmosphere. For rugby fans on a budget, The Albanach on the High Street does hearty Scottish dishes and a vast whisky selection.

💡 Book ahead — every restaurant in the Old Town fills on Six Nations Fridays. Walk-in only at busy pubs.

Match days call for a proper start. Most hotels near the Royal Mile serve breakfast from 7am. After eating, gather your scarf, pick up a match programme from the kiosks outside the stadium, and join the slow migration west towards Murrayfield.

💡 Wear layers. Murrayfield in February can be bitterly cold in the upper tiers.

The stadium is 2.5km west of the city centre. The Edinburgh Tram runs from St Andrew Square to Murrayfield (get off at Haymarket and walk 15 minutes) or fans walk along Princes Street and up Roseburn Street, joining an ever-thickening river of tartan. The walk is part of the experience.

💡 Leave 2.5 hours before kick-off. The Roseburn Bar on Roseburn Street is the closest pub to the stadium and absolutely heaving — worth a stop.

Arrive at least 90 minutes before kick-off. The concourse bars and food stalls are open, the pipe band often plays outside the main entrance, and the noise builds steadily. Take in Flower of Scotland being belted out by 67,000 people — it raises the hairs on your neck every time.

💡 The north stand upper tier has the most vocal fan sections. Whisky is sold on the concourse — this is Scotland.

Kick-off is typically 14:15 or 16:45 on Saturdays, or 15:00 on Sundays. The match lasts 80 minutes plus stoppages and a half-time interval. Murrayfield's atmosphere is among the loudest in world rugby. Expect full-throated renditions of traditional songs and the crowd on their feet for every big moment.

💡 Tickets sell out within hours of release. Check Scottish Rugby's official site and official resale platforms. Face value is £70–£130.

Rose Street is a pedestrianised lane running parallel to Princes Street, lined with traditional pubs. After the match, thousands of fans funnel here. The Kenilworth, The Abbotsford and Milne's Bar are institutions. Expect singing, strangers buying rounds for opposing fans, and the whole evening unravelling gloriously.

💡 No matter who wins, the post-match mixing of fans on Rose Street is genuinely warm-spirited. Scots are famously good hosts.

Arthur's Seat is an ancient volcano rising 251 metres above the city, sitting within Holyrood Park 15 minutes' walk from the Royal Mile. The walk to the summit takes 45 minutes and rewards you with a 360-degree panorama of Edinburgh, the Firth of Forth and the Pentland Hills. A perfect recovery walk.

💡 Wear proper shoes — the path is rocky. The Lion's Head route from the Holyrood Park road is the most straightforward ascent.

At the foot of Arthur's Seat sits the official Scottish residence of the monarch — a 16th-century palace with beautifully preserved state apartments, a ruined 12th-century abbey and the story of Mary Queen of Scots. A 90-minute visit is plenty.

💡 The palace closes when the King is in residence. Check the Royal Collection Trust website before visiting.

Victoria Street curves steeply down from the Grassmarket in a row of brightly coloured Georgian shopfronts — said to have inspired Diagon Alley. Several excellent independent restaurants line it. Café Andaluz does reliably good Spanish tapas and is great for a relaxed farewell lunch.

Allow 90 minutes from the city centre to clear security. The Airlink 100 bus from Waverley Bridge runs every 10 minutes and takes 30 minutes. Pre-booked taxis cost around £25–£30.

💡 Edinburgh Airport's security queues can be long on Sunday afternoons. Arrive 2 hours before departure.

Edinburgh Airport has a good range of shops and restaurants airside. The Caledonian Bar serves local ales and whisky — a fitting last taste of Scotland before boarding.